Mancora & Chachapoyas - Perú

Fell asleep on the bus in Ecuador, woke up in Peru at 5:30 a.m. Immediately grabbed a bus to Mancora, the most famous beach of Peru; surrounded by desert and shacks, the playa itself is like a little holiday oasis filled with sunbathers, kite surfers, music, bars and restaurants. Living in Southeast Asia completely spoiled me in many ways, and one of them is now having an impossibly high standard of what a “good beach” is. Mancora itself doesn’t really stand out in any way, except the fact that it is in the right place at the right time. The weather is always sunny and warm, and when you have to spend hundreds of hours in buses to get through South America, it’s refreshing to have a place to stop off for a swim, a fresh ceviche (or other equally as tasty seafoods) and a few dozen grande beers.

I can sum up my time there in words and pictures instead of full stories:

Up early because of sun and warmth – work off hangover by the pool – around 12:30 walk the 20 minutes down the beach into town with whoever’s around that wants to go for lunch – take a 7 Soles (about $2.25) menu which includes juice, ceviche and a main dish – if no beer was involved in lunch, go for ice cream - walk back down the beach and continue hanging by the pool – shower – beer – sunset – beer. Repeat.

Made lots of new friends, had lots of fun. Like Cassie (AUS) said best, it’s like Groundhog’s Day in Mancora.

ear piercing by Gino

That being said, after 5 days her and I headed out into the “real Peru” and made our way to Chachapoyas, in the north central part of the country. Oh, just 20 hours later we arrived, no big deal. Lots of transit, but the draw to the city is of cultural importance so it was worth it in the end. Hopped off our final bus, checked into a cheap place (Hotel Kuelap, S15/each, about $5) and grabbed a quick breakfast then back into a collectivo to head to the famous sarcophagus just a couple of hours away. Had to catch a taxi for the final stretch on horribly bumpy dirt roads, and by then it had started to rain a bit. We weren’t in Mancora anymore, apparently! After a steep walk down hill in the mud we had the highest hopes for these ancient sarcophagi made of clay and set into a mountain side – only to be sorely disappointed. They were so far away that they just seemed like figurines towering above us, and all we could do was laugh at what we’d come so far for. And then walk back up that steep, muddy hill in the rain. Lovely!

We deserved the beers we consumed that night at dinner, but not the hangover we felt at 7 a.m. the next day. Sometimes life isn’t fair I guess. But you gotta keep on keepin on, so we headed for a full day of touring the massive, ancient ruins of Kuelap, a couple of hours outside of Chachapoyas. Kuelap was a fortress at one point in history, and the ruins are older and bigger then Macchu Picchu, but not nearly as famous as they are not as intact or as aestetically pleasing.

Day 3 in Chachapoyas we headed to Gocta, one of the tallest waterfalls in the world (although it is two waterfalls, so not recognized as such because it is not technically continuous). We knew it would be a 5 hour hike uphill on the way there (about 11.5k each way), but we didn’t realize that it would be scorching hot by mid-day and we’d be burning under the heat of the day. Silly us. We made it to the first town after 5.5k, checked in and took a break for some fruit and water, already pretty exhausted. We were told we had a ride back into town with another groups van in an hour, so we went as far as we could and turned around to catch that collectivo back. After waiting an hour we were told 30 minutes more. After 30 minutes we were told 30 minutes more. After 30 minutes… you can guess. We were in a press for time at that point as we had a night bus to catch, so we accepted the ride with the military, who so graciously moved from the cab of the truck to the back so we could have seats. Lovely men, they were making music in the back to entertain us on the ride as well. Glad we got to see this impressive waterfall – in the middle of the jungle it seemed so powerful and mighty. Two thumbs up for Chachapoyas!

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Ecuador - general thoughts and tips

Ecuador is a small but mighty country. The terrain is some of the most varied on earth: Amazon rainforest, vibrant volcanoes, massive mountains and exotic eco-systems. From the Andes to the Galapagos, from indigenous towns to modern cities, this tiny country really has something to offer everyone. Most of the people are humble, kind and extremely proud of their country. There is a sense of competitiveness between the different cities and the coast as to where “the best” place of Ecuador is – but depending on what you’re searching, for that answer can as varied as the inhabitants that argue the matter.

The capital, Quito, is a pretty dodgy place. Crime abounds here, mostly in the form of theft. I met many people who had their bags slashed and items stolen, or had things taken straight from their pocket. While it is a lovely place, it’s definitely not a city to wander around in the evening, and you should avoid having valuables on you at all times if possible. For as bad of a rap as Colombia gets, I’m sure that Quito tops their cities in terms of being “dangerous”.

The country side and indigenous people of Ecuador are absolutely amazing. Mountains and rivers are everywhere, and while it killed me not to go to the Galapagos, a trip I’ve wanted to do for ages, I feel lucky to have woken up every morning for 2 weeks and stared at Volcano Chimborazo (nearly 20,000 ft). The considerate and compassionate attitude that indigenous people seem to have for each other is inspirational in a world which seems so clearly headed toward reckless narcissism.

General tips:

• Unfortunately, in the year 2000, after many economic problems the currency in Ecuador became the US dollar. While it’s easier not to have to deal with exchange rates, it’s a loss of culture and a state of dependence. If you hand someone a $50 bill, you will almost always get a “no” and sometimes even a scolding for trying to use it (there is a counterfit problem with big bills). A $20 will most of the time get you a chuckle and a look as if to say “nice try”. There is a 50/50 chance that you will be able to use a $10 bill, and even with a bill as small as $5 I sometimes had trouble getting change. A wallet full of $2 and $1 coins is your best bet for day to day transactions in restaurants, transport and tiendas.

• As theft is a big problem in Ecuador, always keep your bags with you! If the buses do not have a ticket system for your big backpack, try to insist that it stay on the bus with you. If they won’t let you because of a full bus, sit next to the window as close to the storage space as possible so you can keep an eye on what goes in and out. Keep your purse and/or day pack on you at all times, no matter what. And keep them zipped and locked if possible. Don’t put your backpack on the floor of the bus, as people slash bags and steal from them while they are right under your feet.


• You can always find a cheap lunch in Ecuador, called an almuerzo. These normally cost between $1.50 and $2, and have a soup for a starter and then a main plate with the option of chicken or beef in different forms and a glass of juice. They are literally served with white rice and then maybe a small ‘salad’ on the side or some potatoes or beans…. and nothing else. No sauce, no spices, no herbs, nothing. Very boring, not very nutritious. I guess you get what you pay for! Many times I tried for an almuerzo with just vegetables, no meat – never once did anyone say yes.

• You will be hard pressed to find a bathroom with soap in Ecuador. Carry some if you’re keen on using it. TP isn’t bad to have on hand either.

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Baños, Cuenca, Vilcabamba - Ecuador

A lovely 30 minute bus ride from Salasaca is the tourist worthy town of Banos. The draw is the natural thermal hot springs and availability for outdoor sports such as canyoning, rock climbing, rafting and hiking. Our first free weekend from work a group of us headed that way for 50 cents on a nice, windy bus ride through the mountains, and after a week in Salasaca somehow Banos felt like the “big city”; even though you can walk around the square town in about 30 minutes and see all there is to see.

The buildings are cute and colorful; the streets are cobble stone and filled with folks for weekend fun. Ice cream and handmade taffy are as frequent as little restaurants with cheap almuerzos and tour agencies. After a quick lunch we went horseback riding for a couple of hours, from the town into the country side, to near a waterfall where we left our horses in “horse parking” and went up to have a look. Very beautiful! On the ride back we picked up the pace and had the horses galloping – my horse was the man! I was all the sudden so far ahead of everyone else (including the guide) I couldn’t even see them anymore when I turned around. It felt great to be running so fast on such a strong animal, I was laughing and shrieking so much I’m sure the local people on the side of the road thought I was a lunatic on a getaway horse.

That night we all met up and went for drinks, which somehow felt even better after a week of going to sleep at 9:30 p.m. and a day of mastering the equestrian art of living. Or at least having fun trying. Was good to cut loose with everyone and then crash on the late night 30 minute bus ride home.

The hung over Sunday windy bus ride wasn’t as charming, but we had a relaxing day in town, including my first sandwich in a month. Amazing what bread and vegetables can do for your spirit after a month of rice and meat. We attempted to go to the hot springs, but considering nearly the entire population of Ecuador was already there (and many of them literally showering/bathing in them), we opted out and headed back to Salasaca for another week of work. If our stomachs would have been in a different state, maybe we would have tried to Ecuadorian specialty of chuy (guinea pig).

The following weekend headed to Cuenca, “the most beautiful city of Ecuador”, which is located at 2500 meters (8,200 feet) above sea level and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I went directly to the flat of Pablo Garcia, someone who I arranged to stay with from Couch Surfing. He and his roommate were at a “day party”, so I explored the scenic city solo for a while. The architecture is unique and impressive; the city is beautiful, clean and felt relatively safe. More cobblestone streets and colonial feel, similar to Old Town in Quito.

When I arrived back to the flat I was there with Barbara (Germany), a friend of Pablo’s roommate, Daniel. The boys were inebriated when they returned, which made for a very comical introduction on my part. With their third roommate, Maria, we headed in the back of a pickup truck for dinner with Pablo and his colleagues (including his boss!). Wow. We continued to drink and Pablo and Daniel had everyone entertained… Pablo’s boss has a good sense of humor, lucky for him. The meal ended with a small food fight, and we hopped back in the pickup truck, singing and dancing our way to a club.

It felt bizarre to be in a place where people clearly had money and liked to show it, girls dressed up to the nines and guys that looked like they wished they just stepped out of a magazine, with drinks priced just as high as a club in the U.S. From Salasaca to there in one day, my head was spinning! Or maybe it was just the Pilsens….

Saturday we rode with Daniel’s friends out the Parque National Cajas and had breakfast, but ended up skipping the park itself as the day was chilly and the entrance fee was high. But a beautiful few hours in any case! After lunch I took to the city by myself while the others went for a siesta, and eventually we all regrouped for sushi – yum! I was forced to get over my contempt for massago, so that was a good thing, I’m not a picky eater but that was always holding me back during group sushi with friends. The club that followed was much more relaxed than the one on Saturday, a small and artsy place on the river where people danced salsa and meringue and we all drank warm, flavored Aguardiente, which went down easy and fast and had our cheeks rosy red and spirits feeling extra goofy. I loved how this group of people was so simple to get along with – we acted like kids and old friends together, it was great to have that instant camaraderie!

Sunday said goodbye and headed south to Vilcabamba, also known as “the playground of the Incas” (was a retreat for royalty) and “the Valley of Longevity” (not uncommon for people to reach 100 years of age here). The area is surrounded by mountains and rivers and is very aesthetically pleasing, while the atmosphere is rather tranquil and leisurely, creating the perfect setting for people to come when they retire. And this is what I experienced in Vilcabamba (I was there alone): being surrounded by older people who came to live a good and affordable life after leaving their own countries. Which is great for them, while it made it slightly boring for me. I took the opportunity to plow through some books, lie in hammocks, take walks in the mountains and drink nice teas and juices.

Oh, there was one morning of waking up to a riot outside my amazing hostel (Jardin Escondido, "Hidden Garden", $10/night including a great breakfast and the most amazing shower I've had on this continent so far) - there had been 2 thieves in town, and since the coup attempt just weeks before the police force hasn't been exactly favored among the public (they attempted to overthrow the President because they claimed he was withholding bonuses and wage increases). So vigilantes on horses caught one of the thieves and were expecting justice, while the police had other plans and took him to Loja (nearest big city) to be dealt with there (aka, immediately released). It seems like the logical way to deal with discount is what followed: burn stacks of tires outside the police station and start a riot. Duh.

Wednesday left Ecuador after a month and headed south on the night bus to Peru. Crossed the border at Macara, which was completely hassle free and painless. Around 3 a.m. got to immigration, so got off the bus and got stamped out of Ecuador, walked across the bridge and got stamped into Peru and then got immediately back on the bus. For some reason, that moment, walking across the bridge alone and at night, hearing nothing but the water running below and seeing the big Peru flag with the sign “Welcome to Peru”, gave me chills down my spine and had me so excited I could feel my heart pumping in my chest!

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Escuela Katitawa - Salasaca, Ecuador

This is my simple religion. There is no need for temples; no need for complicated philosophy. Our own brain, our own heart is our temple; the philosophy is kindness.

The Dalai Lama

Going to Salasaca and volunteering at the Katitawa School started off as a way to travel cheaper, figuring that for that one week I would spend only the $10 donation and then whatever I needed for dinner and the occasional cold adult beverage. I couldn’t foresee how much I would adore the children, love the town and appreciate the beauty and simplicity all around me. After arriving in town, I headed for the library connected with the school, where I met a few of the volunteers and was taken to the house where everyone lives. At that time there were 15 of us from all around the world, although mostly Americans and Europeans. The view from the back deck had me actually chuckling with awe at how stunning it was, and I settled in for my first of many tremendous sunsets. Volcano Chimborazo (elevation 6,268 meters or 20,564 feet!) is visible and even though the peak is the farthest spot from the center of the earth you can possibly get (due to the equatorial bulge), it is always covered in snow and is breathtaking in its solitude.

from our back deck

The routine of our house (named Pachamama, or “Earth Mother” in Quichua, the local language of the Salasacas) started with waking up around 6 a.m. for breakfast at 6:30. Robert, an American man who runs the school, came to the house each morning to make a vat of porridge big enough to feed the entire town, and then people set out in groups to walk up to the school. It’s about 40 minutes uphill, zig-zagging through countless farms and animals, with 360 degree mountain views all around – invigorating and beautiful, and by the end most conversations halt because of the lack of being able to breathe let alone carry on a discussion. Anywhere between 8 and 8:30 classes get under way, so the volunteers are either working in the garden/farm, doing construction or helping in a class room. Longer term volunteers have their own classes, so I agreed to help assist Evan in his English classes. At 9:30 there is a break for chloda (a broth with some granola type of stuff in it) and cookies. At 12 we break for lunch and then go back to work for 1 more hour after lunch, finishing the day at 1:30.

serenely sweet Liz and Jessica

silly Cesar

adorable Adrian

Kylee & the kiddos

The school itself is runs on donations, and for the students who attend, this is their only form of education. The kids range in age from about 3 – 15, and the attempt is to give them a Montessori type of education, so as much one on one teaching as can possibly be done. Due to the fact that their knowledge levels are essentially completely varied, it takes a lot of patience to work every student through the tasks, but they are all so sweet (even if some need more ‘coaching’ then others). The supplies at the school are minimal, and most of the time the volunteers are buying what they would like to have in the classroom for the kids, ie: books, notebook, crayons, pencils, art supplies. There are no set workbooks for the English classes and the resources are few and far between.

Friday art day

make shift Twister

the start of a real jungle gym with zip line

These kids made me so happy…. their mostly cheerful attitudes and desire to have sheer and wholesome fun was so refreshing. To play on the volunteer-made tire swing and jungle gym had them shrieking with delight daily. To run around and play football in the vibrantly designed ‘field’ had them competitive and cooperative, begging us to join their teams. At break time and lunch there was a constant flow of students wanting to sit next to (or on) you, try on your glasses, take pictures with your camera, rub their grimy hands all over your face, and in my case especially, play with your hair. I just wanted to squeeze every one of them… and then put them in a hot bath, scrub them clean and lotion their dry little skin up!

very outgoing Fransisca Ligia

Nuesta, aka Squishy Face, aka Squishy

Many of the students wore traditional clothing, so the highly impractical stark white pants and white button down shirt covered with a poncho. Not the best thing for the dusty, dry mountains, but it’s incredibly adorable in any case.

Monday flag assembly with National Anthem

the school

walkin home

When we weren’t working, there was somewhat of a schedule at the house; 1 night a week you took a library shift, so from 3-8 you monitor the people in the biblioteca, helping out wherever need be. There is also the option in that time to teach a class (English for Adults, Spanglish, English for Artesians). Our dinners were always communal, so to cook for 15 people required that everyone got in groups and cooked 1 night a week. The aim is to spend $1/person on the meal, so if it was your turn to cook you’d spend anywhere between $4-5, but basically get fed for the entire week. When it was your night you would cook, serve and clean; kind of a pain but then the other nights of the week you get to sit back and relax and get waited on. And waited on well! The meals were incredible, most of them 3 courses, all of them vegetarian, but the creative things that some of the groups came up with shocked me and my taste buds into a satiated oblivion.

I loved Katitawa School, the town of Salasaca and the other volunteers so much I decided to skip seeing the coast of Ecuador and stayed there for 2 weeks. Well worth it, wish it could have been longer! If you are at all interested in making a difference in this community and the individuals in it, please consider donating to the Katitawa School! Here is a link to their website (and blog) where you can easily make a contribution securely through PayPal. There is no middle man of wasting of finances here – everything goes directly to and for this lovely little school.

(For more info):

http://www.skyecuador.org

If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.

If you want to be happy, practice compassion.

The Dalai Lama

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Otavalo & Mitad del Mundo - Ecuador

Two lovely day trips from Quito made for quite a nice weekend – Otavalo, an indigenous town in the Imbabura province, is known for its lively Saturday market. There is no shortage of handmade textiles, many of which are spun from wool. Colorful sweaters, bags, scarves, wall hangings, purses and hammocks dominate the entire town for the day, and the streets are packed with foreigners and Ecuadorians alike. The prices are competitive and low, I feel lucky I managed to escape with only purchasing a necklace, a pair of earrings and a scarf! There is also quite a large food market with everything from fruits and vegetables to bread and sweets to entire pigs laid out with their body parts being chopped off one by one as people pick what they fancy that meal.

Otavaleña women wear traditional clothing which includes intricately embroidered white blouses with lace sleeves and long black skirts and a series of beaded necklaces. The men wear bright white pants and ponchos, with their long hair pulled back in a ponytail if they have it. David, Deborah and I wandered up and down the streets for hours, stopping only for an almuerzo (set lunch, ranges in price from $1 – 2, but more about them later). A short, packed bus ride and we were at a waterfall outside of town, along with throngs of other people who needed a relief from the hectic market. Beautiful, nonetheless.

Sunday was the perfect day to visit the equator, Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World) as it’s called here. Located in the Pichincha province, this line is the claim to fame for Ecuador, where you can stand with one foot in each hemisphere if you choose. There is an attractive monument and museum on the line which was believed to be the exact line of the equator before GPS came around, so with a friend from school in Quito (Ian) we hung out there for a bit before heading over to the true line, which is just 240 meters away. Not bad calculating considering the year of its discovery was 1743!

On the true line of the equator you pay $3 to get in the area and have a little group tour, which includes some fun tricks with the magnetic forces of the earth – balancing an egg on a nail, watching water funnel on either side of the line (opposite directions) and then go straight down when on the equatorial line itself, all sorts of interesting experiments. There is also some fascinating information about indigenous people of the region, including an exhibit of shrunken heads, a practice where severed heads were kept as trophies of war.

Before heading back to the city, Ian and I stopped for lunch – I stuck with the classic almuerzo, while he branched out to try something new. Turned out to be cow hoof soup. Whoops!

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